It has been a while since I published one of my outfits on TDC. I thought I would give it another go and would like to present my recent acquisition from Massura, a tailor with the love for the finest quality from Italy stationed in beautiful Munich. The hunting jacket (no it’s not its nickname) is not your ordinary jacket but interestingly, very versatile in our niche.
Let me first start off by saying what a wonderful journey it has been with the two lovely founders of Massura. Anthea and Moritz, who are also a couple, run the business with a lot of passion and devotion. Whilst Moritz is the front face and works with each individual client and is a fabric expert, Anthea is the backbone of the operation, working as the official photographer, financial guru and marketing expert. As you work with Massura, you will be in touch with both of them as each one of them specialises in their own particular field. Together they form a powerful bond dedicated to Moritz passion of all things hand made and quality. Massura is based in Munich but travels to Paris, Vienna, Switzerland, pretty much anywhere you live and want a truly great product. It offers high end made to measure through Orazio Luciano and quiet recently created their own house cut which is completely bespoke and in their own interpretation (tried the trousers and they are phenomenal).
I first met Anthea and Moritz approximately 1 1/2 years ago as I had been gifted a few fabrics but wasn’t sure where to make them to a suit and most importantly, to my liking. That is where we got in touch and said that it would be possible to created a truly unique product for me with the fabrics I’ve chosen. To be frank, he had me at “unique”. Since then, we have had a wonderful friendship, sharing our love for bespoke and made to measure as well as heading to trade fairs such as Pitti Uomo together. We would both agree and say, that it does really help when the two ladies (his and mine) like each other too.
As I always say, working together with a tailor is not only about the product itself, it is also about the bond you forge and create between one another. At the end of the day, this will help you out in the future when you want to create more items and for example, your are unsure about your wardrobe. You can share this with your tailor he might give you good advice on your next acquisition.
Late last year, I approached Moritz with a proposition to create something I’ve seen on Instagram. After a few goes we finally managed to get my extremely difficult and rather fast changing body into a great fit, so next up, a new project. The hunting Jacket was on my mind for probably a year.For those of you who don’t know what a Hunting Jacket is, let me explain briefly. Found in the actual form of hunting and clay pigeon shooting, it is laid out to assist the wearer in space and maneuverability. Signature features include, pleats in the back and extended front pockets for extra storage of ammunition.
As we saw a growing increase in the take on the safari jacket in the summer, the hunting jacket seemed like the perfect equivalent in the colder months. On Instagram, on my daily inspo hunt, I came across a model that Orazio Luciano created for Sartorial Beijing. Let me tell you, the picture below got me hooked. I’ve never seen anything similar and wanted it badly! After a few discussion on details, we went on with looking for a suitable fabric. The one pictured, used a Harris Tweed which is rather heavy and rough. Whilst it does look delicious, Moritz explained that it would look great with a softer tweed but with the same characteristics.
We decided on a beautiful light brown Holland and Sherry Tweed in a Herringbone pattern, which was a bit more light weight but softer in make as well. The result was quite surprising as it was “city approved” in some sense. All the details were kept the same as I wanted them to be. The light brown fit quiet well into my wardrobe as I wanted something similar and versatile enough to wear with many different items I already had. Of course, this jacket wont be for everyone and I’m not suggesting it should be in a mans wardrobe, however, it is about the process and the outcome I want to you to understand.
The jacket, as all my jackets, features a 11.5 cm lapel and the signature shoulder of Orazio Luciano, a shirt like shoulder with pleats (spalla camicia). Before anyone asks, YES the pleats are wanted and YES they have a function. It allows the wearer to have more freedom of movement as the pleats expand same as the pleats on a trouser (you can read the article here). The higher armhole allows for that to happen. They also just look damn good on a man!
As my silhouette is of bigger nature (beautiful straight strong shoulders, slim waist and a butt JLo would kill for) I prefer natural falling shoulders. It doesn’t make me look bigger rather more proportionate. That is also why I get drawn to the Italian tailors as they have mastered the craft of soft shoulders, and light weight canvas.
Having looked over the overall fit of the jacket there are three things I would change to my future purchases. First, and this is entirely my fault, is the size of the lapels. I’ve always been a big fan of big and broad lapels, however, I would like them to be more proportionate to my body type. This is something Moritz pointed out to me several times but I ignorantly insisted on my own opinion. I’m sorry pal! You were right, I was wrong! Second, due to my numerous injuries, my right arm (also being the stronger) is slightly longer than my left. Therefore, I would shorten the left a bit further in order to have them equal length. This is easy to adjust with a tailor. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to do so before heading back to Italy. Last but not least, I’ve come to notice that I am starting to prefer classic lining, preferably matching or without any pattern. This is something that everyone has to decide for themselves but I really do have to say that classic is the way to go for me now (also something Moritz convinced me to do). Other than that, the jacket turned out pretty damn good.
Together with this beautiful piece of art, I tried out Massura’s own private label which came out late last year. Together with the grey flannel, I got myself a dark red moleskin trouser to compliment the jacket as well as bring in a bit of color into my wardrobe. The trouser is completely made by hand and features Massura’s house cut waistband, double pleats and a coin pocket. We will cover the trousers in a separate post to highlight its traits and why you should invest in Massura’s private label trousers.
In conclusion, the project was a success and I couldn’t be any happier with my choice and who made it. After all, finding great Italian tailoring in Germany is rather hard. Yes, there are some that offer it but it is never really personal and with Moritz you create a bond that apart from the amazing service he provides, is still a major plus when it comes to finding your go-to tailor.
Enjoy your Sunday evening read and I hope you like the pictures as much as I did standing in the freezing cold of Milan and Munich.
A big thanks goes out to Sofia Santangelo and Fabio Zazzaretta for taken these pictures in Milan.