Having struggled with purchasing items off the rack especially suits, I have always kept skeptic when it comes to ready made items. However, this is until I found a new tailoring house on the block which in fact has been around since 1954 on the other side of the world. 

It is no secret that the Asian market is favored by many European brands as a way of expanding to a rich economy with a lot of potential. Nowadays, most of your favorite tailoring houses will be planning their trunk shows there and aim to cover the whole continent and in the biggest and most prominent cities in a short amount of time. The aim: create as many orders as possible to bring back to Europe (Italy for tailors) and turn that into beautiful statement pieces.

There is one country in particular which really interests me and has created a big name for itself in the sartorial market without the help of us Europeans. Japan has always been well known for high quality, an elegant culture, good food and now, RTW tailoring. I’m as impressed as you are! Let me quickly just tell you what I am looking for when shopping online…

I usually go a size up. Im a regular 54 shoulder and chest, a 50 waist and 50 trouser. When it comes to my upper legs, well, I would go for a 54 thigh and a 50 lower leg. I’m a proud 183cm SOB and as you can see, my Rugby days did not really take kindly to my sartorial passion. Now to find all of this in a ready made suit is damn near impossible and so often I have to go for a 52 and hope for the best. There will always be a problem that cannot be fixed by a tailor. MTM makes this easy as butter spread on toasted bread. However, it is also significantly more expensive and requires a fuller purse if it is meant to be acquired. Also, don’t make me forget the months waiting for your garment to arrive.

Without further babbling, lets speak about my surprise RTW Suit by Ring Jacket.

I found this handsome beauty in an online store of  The Armory, the number one seller of European goods in Hong Kong and New York City. It is made out of a scotch flannel Prince of Wales in green with orange overcheck, soft but heavy, perfect for the colder days as a complete suit or as separates. Ring Jacket, an Osaka based tailoring company specializes, as they say in “RTW clothing that feels closer to the MTM clothing.”since 1954.  I will be the first one to admit if something doesn’t fit me well and I’m not satisfied (go ahead, ask my tailor), but oh my, this is something else! Due to the cooperation they have with The Armory, they created a house cut featuring a wider armhole and slightly extended shoulder, which in most European brands is rather unheard of or mainly found in high end stores.

The jacket fit right away with minor adjustments at the waist. No need to change the arm length just yet, although I am thinking go shortening them just a tad. The back was surprisingly clean only with my always present neck pleat to distract its beauty. The length of the jacket can be argued as too long, however, I quiet like it that way, it stretches my silhouette. The trousers are the toughest where, most of the time, the tailor has to widen the trouser especially when it comes to my JLO paired with Kardashian butt. In this particular case, the trousers came bigger, much bigger and I’m happy to report that they fit like they were tailor made.

Some other interesting details were the unlined interior and the spalla camicia (shirt shoulder) of the suit. All in all, this brand has got me completely twisted as too how tailoring has evolved on the other side of the world.

It is save to say that this is by far, the BEST fitting RTW suit I have ever purchased. The price is realistic for its craftsmanship and therefore dearly recommended. Will I shop one again? Absofuckinglutley!

Have you ever heard of Ring Jacket? If so, what do you think? Do you own one?

Regards,

 

W