Pitti Uomo 96 has started today and thousands of buyers, sellers, press members, peacocks and fashion enthusiastic people have ascended on Florence. The city, rich in historical architecture and its millions of tourists, turns into a catwalk of new cool trends, inspirational ensembles and of course, the unforgettable ridiculous looks of some individuals. The biannual pilgrimage has commenced so let’s have a closer look at today’s choice of wear.
The best way to beat the heat of Florence is not only certain materials but a sheer will power of embracing it. No matter what you wear, shirts and shorts, suit and tie, you will not get around the fact that you will be damp by the end of the day. However, some fabrics quite frankly, look even better through wear and exposure to the heat.
Linen is one of those fabrics and whilst I was never the ultimate fan of linen, I’ve come to deeply cherish it. There is a certain beauty to a well tailored trouser and shirt combination. Yes, I do mean tailored, since there are many interpretations that are too slouchy and too loose giving it the bad name it has acquired over the years. It should not be worn tight, as the fabric needs space for the heat to escape but also no loose enough to look like Steve Jobs on his weekend grind. The idea is to get the best of both worlds.
There is a reason Linen is the oldest fabric in the world in terms of clothing. Being used by the ancient Egyptians to the Greeks, Linen has withstood the test of time and has embraced a entirely new culture of fashion with many different brands adding their own interpretation to the mix.
Now, lets look at the way I used the fabric in Question.
Once again, I had the pleasure to partner with one of my favorite brands to make my idea come to life. Massura and TDC have had a fruitful relationship since the very beginning and have now grown to a stand alone ambassadorship. Co founders Anthea and Moritz are not only hard workers but have a great mind for the details and understand the taste of their customers.
Our goal was to come up with a sports coat, easy enough to be worn with jeans and chinos during the warmer months but also being able to embrace the transition period of colder temperatures. I find it important, if you go for a product of this value, that you see the wide range of versatility it brings in order to make the most of it. Therefore, one should also consider a pattern that is not easily recognizable or, versatile enough to be adapted.
Moritz, ones again, understood what I was going for and we decided on a single breasted sports coat in the Massura house cut in a luxurious fabric by Loro Piana (N692028). It was important to me to have a mix of fabrics instead of pure linen. This makes the fabric less wrinkled, more shiny and ultimately more formal in my opinion.
Above you can have a closer look at the fabric itself. A very beautiful interpretation by Loro Piana in wool, silk and linen with a base of grey accompanied by a brown check and white. I was particularly fond of the brown check for it to work even better with brown shoes or in this case with the Natalino chocolate linen trouser I am testing.
Since this is also my first Massura house cut jacket, we must talk about the fit. This, is also quite remarkable for me. First off, Moritz was never really satisfied with what was offered in terms of gorge, shoulder line and canvas, since most of the tailors already had their own cut, he decided to simply offer his own style. There will be a closer look at the overall style in a coming post.
Regarding the fit, there is nothing I could find that bothered me. I want to be clear, that I’m trying to be honest with everything I wear and Moritz knows that. We already spoke about one particular detail that is always center of my thoughts. Due to a lower gorge, the lapel width seems to have reduced in size from my normal preferred width of 11cm. This is something we both agreed, will be adjusted in the future. Furthermore, with my tastes leaning more to the classic side of things, I would lengthen the jacket 1cm to compliment a longer silhouette in the future.
As of now, I’ve worn the sports coat once to a dinner in Munich and here in Florence. The heat has also changed the fit of the jacket in a few ways, all positive. As I love the drape of a jacket, the chest has loosened up, making it more roomy and comfortable. Also, due to it being part linen, the back as stretched slightly, however we will see how this fairs with continuous wear. Perhaps, this has to be taken in.
The grey base color with the brown and white check, made it a very versatile coat indeed. However, with the choices provided by Natalino, the decision fell on a heavy brown focused ensemble. Over the past months, brown has been a go-to color in all things shoes, trousers and even shirts. The chocolate of the trouser complimented the check in the sports coat making it a match made in heaven. To give a stronger focus on the top, I opted for a bespoke one piece collar in a light blue linen. Through a neckerchief (which I normally don’t wear, but have grown accustomed to every once in a while) there is more play in an otherwise sophisticated combination. For the comfort at my feet, Baudoin and Lange, because they simply make a summer outfit.
Massura is one of those brands that I consider a “standard to meet”. The jacket I wore today was packed with a wallet, a phone, a cigar lighter and a cigar case. Whilst the cigar case was absent at this moment, the jacket comfortably was able to be closed with extra room for more Bistecca 😉. So why should you go bespoke? Simple! There is a certain satisfaction to be achieved and once you find the perfect balance between fit, style and fabric, there is no other way!
For an appointment with Massura, please contact email@example.com or on Instagram @massura_sartoria. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me as well.
Enjoy your evening.