In meswear, there are many patterns which lure around the office buildings, parks and bars. But which ones are the most used and which should not be forgotten. Lets find out…
As there are many, I will categorize them into suit and jacket patterns as they will most likely be seen or used in these categories. This is of course also a great deal of personal taste but I would go as far as to say some just look very strange as a suit or a single jacket. Let us start with suit patterns…
The Suit Pattern
1.Pinstripe and Chalkstripe
The Pinstripe suit is back! In the 1920s this pattern was so much out there like a new fashion trend on the catwalk, but just every year. A pattern that would win you more than just one look quickly became famous with the Hollywood stars at that time. Cary Grant, being the foremost patriot of the pinstripe suit made it more popular than ever. After loosing track a few decades it is back now and can be considered a pattern a man should have in his wardrobe. Pair it with the right accessories and it will become a favorite. If we talk about pinstripe, we must not forget his bolder brother, chalk stripe. Think of a pinstripe suit with a thicker stripe and slightly further apart. If you ask me, the more full on version. If you need fabric recommendations, go for a more thicker fabric such as a heavy worsted or flannel. In my opinion a very nice pattern when it comes to setting a statement.
2.Prince of Wales
As with many chefs, they have food or ingredients named after them, when it comes to tailoring, we refer to distinctive cuts based on country and origin. However, fabrics can also have their fables. Whilst we are talking about many patterns and most of you will know houndstooth (cause granny wears it), pinstripe and check, there is one pattern that is quiet royal, unique to the bunch. Originally introduced in Invernesshire at the country estate of Seafield in Scotland, as their tartan, the Prince of Wales “borrowed” it after seeing it a few times on his hunting trips around the estate. After reinterpreting it, the grandson, Duke of Windsor further led it into the family archives. To keep it short, Prince of Wales is in my opinion a very versatile pattern and if worn in a more casual fabric, can definitely be used as separates.
Similar to his older brother POW, the glencheck pattern reminds us of the elegant structure it provides in a grey suit. Whilst the POW has an overcheck stimulating the pattern to new heights, the glencheck keeps it calm and sophisticated only leaving its intertwining checks. It is most often used in suiting and can give the right twist once you are getting tired of the boring blue and grey plains as your superior forbids you to look sexy. Think of it as a rule breaker around the office. You are meant to keep it clean, and somewhat… you are.
Now I know what you are thinking. Who in the blue hell thought of this stupid stupid name. Answer is… most likely a Fisherman. No but honestly, most fabrics we discussed, the name has a certain ring to it, and now this… Anyhow, if you are a business man or want a serious suit in particular, you may as well invest in this fabric. In fact, this is your perfect light grey suit. It is subtle, has a tiny bit of structure and can be paired with almost anything. The main feature of this pattern is that it mostly comes in mohair fabrics and wool and is a two tone weave. This means that its effect is mostly achieved through a basket weaving effect where by the dark tone running over the light. Good choice if you are aiming for formal wear as it add a bit more shine to it.
When it comes to formal wear and subtle patterns, there is no better than Birdseye. Recognizable by its dotted nature, manages to finish off with a clean touch as the dots are woven into a dark surface and therefore stand out once looking at them straight ahead. It it is my favorite pattern for elegant suits. Personally, I would go with a super 160 in a fairly light fabric to make it a more versatile suit. We are talking about a full canvas and fully lined suit of course. Now there are of course different versions of this fabric such as the Nailhead for instance, however, this being smaller and thinner in nature.
We come to another personal favorite. Although widely underestimated and considered a rather casual fabric, I view this as my close quarter choice for a dark grey double breasted suit. Why? The answer is, because it is so strong yet subtle. I find, that this fabric is able to blend in much better than the rest, although being mostly plain in color. Herringbone can be identified by its up and down woven arrows which makes it look like fish scales. All in all, this fabric can be worn casually with a twist or in a suit where it is still able to show its unique shine in a more serious ensemble.
So to conclude, here are a few very interesting fabric patterns for you to keep a look out on. I know there are many different versions and similiarities amongst these fabrics such as “Birdseye and Nailheads” or “Pinstripe and Chalkstripe”.This is to give you an idea of the main ones and the most used patterns out there. With these patterns, you can go bold and you may go clean. At the end of the day it is for you to choose which pattern your tailoring wardobe needs the most. If you ask me, I would take all of the above… In many variations😉✌️
Of course, we are missing a few but keep in mind that these above mentioned are more used in suits and some can be found in jackets. We will touch on the patterns of jackets in the next post.
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All patterns are taken from the Huddersfield Textiles bunches. In order to purchase their fabrics, please follow the link HERE.