Welcome back to Pattern School, yet another title created by the talented gentleman Don Will of Sartorialhausen and heir to the Duke of Lapel. Im just kidding, let me have some fun and prays myself to new heights. This is my only true moment of self-love. Now! Lets be serious. The other day, I showed you some of the more preferred patterns in suiting. Today, we will touch up on jackets.
When we go for patterns in jackets/ blazers, we are free to go a bit more wild. This is why, many would most likely choose them for their separates option instead of rocking an all out purple gun plaid suit. There not so many limitations as there are with suits. So here are a selection of 5 that would work well in jackets.
Often found in the English countryside by gentlemen wearing their formidable hunting jackets in heavy tweed often accompanied by corduroy pants, this fabric has made it way past “old”. The name derives from its window- like wide square look and where the pattern forms continuous squares across its surface. It is definitely a more bolder look and therefore more often found in jackets. It could often be seen by our beloved style icon the Duke of Windsor, rocking a windowpane jacket with cuffed trouser with a high rise and wide trouser opening. If you ask me, my preferred color would be a dark green base with a dark red windowpane pattern. Pair that with a blue striped shirt and perhaps a off-white pair of pants and you will definitely bring the heat.
2. Gun plaid
A pattern that is been on my radar for quiet some time. In fact, I owned a jacket a year back which sadly turned out be rather poorly made. The pattern is formally known as “the Coigach” developed in Ullapool, an area in the West of Scotland. As with all tartans in Scotland, the pattern was developed as a “district tartan” to show your “respective heritage”. It then quickly became rather popular with the Scottish aristocracy who adopted it for their outdoor sport and other more formal physical activities. When it comes to the style of pattern there are many different colors to choose from. Here, I would personally stick to natural colors, earth colors, that allow you to stand out but tone down the overall pattern. As it is quiet bold, shirt and tie will have to take a step into the subtlety corner.
We come back to yet another pattern that originated as a so called “tartan” in Scotland. The roots date back to the 1800s where Scottish sheepherders incorporated the pattern into their clothing and used it for their daily work environment. In the 1920s however, Scottish landlords claimed the pattern as their tartan and defended it rigorously to outside wearers. As it was never really claimed officially, Houndstooth is considered neutral ground, “Switzerland” of Tartania if you like. The bigger the pattern, the bolder and more casual it gets. Nowadays, you can find it almost anyway, shirts, socks, trousers, coats, jacket, gloves and shoes. Since it mostly comes in a duo-color combination, my preferred option would be an off-white on dark brown pattern in a slightly bolder option. For me, a whole suit could be an option, but I would start off with only a jacket.
Twill is a textile weave which can be identified through its diagonal ribs. In most cases therefore, twill has a front and a back side. Due to its creation, the warp of the fabric which is the means in creating it, is passed through on over the other and so on creating its distinctive diagonal pattern. A perfect jacket pattern as it can mostly be found in plain colors and therefore enhance the pattern. For the upcoming season, you could go for a navy single breasted blazer or dark green. Go for a fabric for a bit more weight to show the beautiful texture it creates.
A common pattern which we touched up on in suits also makes its appearance quiet often in Jackets. Without going into too much detail (you can read about this pattern in this post), herringbone is a suitable option for a jacket. Found in various tones and in heavier fabrics, it gives you a lot of different styles to choose from. A great option would be choosing a slightly heavier fabric of wool for the fall/winter season, preferably containing a small amount of cashmere in a rich earth color such as a brown tone or even a darker red. It is very versatile, being the reason why it is mentioned again. Ultimately, it is up to your own preferences on how to use this pattern. A few hints however, are never a bad idea…
Concluding this short introduction of jacket patterns, I believe it is of course in the best interest of every man to choose his favorite style and stick with it. I for instance am a rather curious man and therefore like to try many and preferably in millions of styles, colors, patterns and so on. However, the course of humanity in an economic point of view would probably be rather negative. Therefore, go for patterns that you think can harmonize well with your wardrobe and will be used for a long time.
There is a quote you should stick to, “Quality over Quantity”…Always.
Let me know what your favorite pattern is and if you have any color ideas! Looking forward discussing it with you.
All fabrics are by Fabric Merchant and producer Huddersfield Textiles and can be purchased over their website here.